Food

Soba, Edinburgh

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24/06/15

We generally avoid reviewing chain restaurants but with venues only in Edinburgh, Glasgow and (recently opened) Leeds, Soba seemed suitably niche enough to make an exception. Describing its offerings as ‘Pan Asian Street-Food,’ this self-styled bar/kitchen occupies a slot on Hanover Street and offers a funky, lively place to dine, with tables arranged on several levels. The interior decorator seems to have a predilection for different kinds of light fittings and manga style art, but the overall effect is much more pleasing than I’m making it sound.

For starters we chose Sweetcorn and Coconut Fritters, which were every bit as light and delicately spiced as the name would lead you to expect: and Char Siu Steamed Pork Buns with Ginger Plums. These were deliciously soft and sticky and when you got over the initial surprise of them being so gloopy, were really rather enjoyable. The ginger plums lent the dish a contrasting piquancy.

The main courses were two familiar favourites. As somebody who spent several years of my childhood in Malaysia, I couldn’t resist the Nasi Goreng, a deliciously spicy mixture of rice, chicken and shrimps, served with chicken skewers, a thick, lip-smackingly good peanut sauce and shrimp crackers. The whole thing is topped off with a soft fried egg. (In my childhood, Nasi Goreng was our equivalent of fish and chips. A man used to cycle around with a heated box of the stuff, which would be served wrapped in a banana leaf. Obviously, in that version the egg was of the scrambled variety but we loved it! Soba’s version was much more stylish but had an authentic taste that took me right back to those happy days.) Susan sampled the Pad Thai, a generously sized bowl of rice noodles and prawns, intensely flavoured with lime, ginger and tamarind. Again, it was everything that a Pad Thai should be – a delightful commingling of ingredients, topped with crunchy bean sprouts.

As I said earlier, portions are on the generous side, so we eschewed the dessert menu this time around. Neither was it the right opportunity to sample any of Soba’s cocktails, of which they are clearly very proud. I should perhaps mention that they are now offering an express lunch with two courses for just £8.95 (which is a bargain any way you look at it) and regular diners might like to consider investing in a trade card, which costs just £25 and offers 25% off main courses, cocktails for just £5 and ‘house pours’ – four of the most popular spirit and mixer combinations – for just £2.

Our meal for two with a couple of drinks came to just over £30. We’ll most certainly be eating there again.

4.2 stars 

Philip Caveney

Malt Cross, Nottingham

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10/05/15

The Malt Cross must qualify as Nottingham’s most extraordinary dining venue. Built as a music hall in 1877 by one Charles Weldon, entertainer, it’s charming hanging stage has played host to the like of Dame Nellie Melba, Stan Laurel and even Charlie Chaplin. It’s one of just four existing music halls in the UK and the only one that still offers live entertainment. Thanks to a £1.3 million lottery grant, it’s been lovingly refurbished, retaining as many of the original features as possible and as well as exuding tons of atmosphere, the place is a regular hive of creativity, offering theatrical events, concerts, clubs, societies and even studio space in which to film videos. Even more remarkably, it’s built over the site of a monastery that was founded in the 1200’s and down in the sub basement, there’s a network of eerie-looking caves.

As if all this wasn’t enough, it’s also a dining venue. We were there for Sunday lunch and though there was a decent al a carte menu, which includes the ubiquitous roast dinner, there was also something I haven’t seen elsewhere. On the table is a pad full of order forms. As you can see from the illustration, there are just three smoked meats to choose from – Beef Brisket, Pulled Pork or Pulled Chicken – and two vegetarian options – Portobello Mushroom with melted halloumi or a ‘Beet Burger’. Each option costs just £6 and you can wrap it in your choice of three breads or go for a healthy salad on the side.

However, once you have chosen your basic ingredients, you can then customise your meal to your heart’s content by ticking up to thirteen ‘toppings’ at no extra cost. For a pound or so more, you can also choose from six side dishes. You then hand in your orders and sit back with a well-earned drink.

I tried the beef brisket and Susan opted for the pulled chicken. Both arrived promptly, displayed on unpretentious enamel plates and both meals were hearty and delicious. (A tiny niggle – my potato wedges with rosemary salt were delicious but could have done with being a little bit hotter. No big deal.) The portions were generous enough to deter us from looking at the dessert menu, but I can report that in the bar area, there’s a whole election of freshly baked cakes on offer, the profits from which go to a local charity.

So, next time you’re in Nottingham, head down to James Street for a great value lunch in one of the most amazing settings you will ever witness. I guarantee it will be a unique  dining experience.

4 stars

Philip Caveney

My Big Fat Greek Kitchen, Edinburgh

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01/05/15

We visited this restaurant after a recommendation from a friend. It’s situated on Brougham Street, a stone’s throw from the Meadows. The interior is fairly Spartan and has the atmosphere of a simple taverna. I don’t know for sure, but I’d hazard a guess that MBFGK is a family-run affair and it’s clear from the hugs and kisses handed out by the proprietor to various guests as they departed, that this place generates a lot of return custom. Service, it has to be said, through warm and friendly, was a tad erratic. Our waitress kept galloping about the place to rearrange chairs and tables, even in the middle of taking our order.

For starters, I chose Whitebait, a dish that’s notoriously difficult to find these days. These were somewhat larger than expected and nicely cooked, lightly dusted with breadcrumbs. They came with nothing more than a small bowl of mayonnaise and the traditional slice of lemon. Susan chose Feta Cheese with kalamata olives and that’s exactly what she got – a generous hunk of cheese and a pile of bitter-tasting olives; but the dish needed something more to complete it – a couple of slices of pitta bread would have been a welcome addition. Perhaps some salad garnish?

For the main course, I went with Stifado – a rich and peppery beef stew. It arrived slapped into a white bowl, accompanied by a couple of pieces of dry toasted bread and an almost risible selection of fries – there were perhaps six of them in total, tasting of very little. The stew itself was hearty and satisfying, but once again, the dish felt incomplete and there was no attempt to make it look appetising. Susan’s choice of Lamb Souvlaki was pretty good, I thought, a generously sized skewer of tender meat,  onion and peppers, resting on a bed of rice, but once again, the dish looked rather underwhelming. The chef clearly knows how to prepare the meat elements of the meals, but would do well, I think, to put a little more effort into his presentation skills.

We drank a bottle of house white and I would have expected this to be a traditional Greek wine – an Assyrtiko, perhaps or a Savatiano, but instead we were served a (fairly decent) Italian Pino Grigio. Go figure. Overall, we enjoyed the food, but the name leads you to expect some kind of gastronomic blowout, which this certainly wasn’t. Don’t get me wrong. It was decent food, but with a little more work on the presentation, it would have scored much higher.

3.2 stars

Philip Caveney

Kro, Heaton Moor

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31/04/15

Kro has been in a prime location on the Moor since 2007. Back in the day, it was mostly famous for it’s Danish-inspired specialities, but that aspect has been somewhat reined in and these days it operates as an upmarket pub grub venue. The place has a relaxed atmosphere and the open plan, glass-walled extension makes for pleasant dining, especially in the summer months. On Sunday evenings there’s ‘Song Swap’ where various musicians come together to perform their material. The staff are relaxed and friendly and nothing is too much trouble. Make no mistake, this isn’t a place where you’d come for haute cuisine. If however, you’re in the market for a great value bit of scran and you’re not in the mood to cook something at home, this is hard to beat. There’s a fairly comprehensive a la carte and every evening, you’ll find a selection of specials chalked up on a board, offering two courses for £10 and three for £12.50.

On our latest visit, we decided to stick entirely to the specials board. I began with Lamb Kofta served with tzatziki, rocket salad and pitta bread. The Kofta was spicy and crunchy, though there was only a single skewer. It was accompanied by a generous side bowl of tzatziki and a dry pitta bread. Susan’s choice was Breaded Salmon Bites with sweet chilli sauce. The bites were light and fluffy, delicately flavoured and nicely set off by the sweet sauce. I thought it was the better of the two starters, certainly more generous, though both were perfectly acceptable.

For the main course, I sampled the Crab Cakes, served with wilted spinach, tartare sauce and French Fries. The cakes themselves were a little dry, though flavoursome enough and there was a large bowl of tartare sauce into which to dunk them. The fries were unremarkable and in my estimation, could have done with another minute in the fryer. Once again, Susan fared better with her choice of Slow Roasted Pork Belly, served with crushed new potato cake and a saje (sic) and onion gravy. The pork was melt in the mouth tender with a pleasing crunchy top layer and the rich onion gravy brought everything together nicely.

The portions were generous enough to eschew a sweet, though all three choices sounded appealing. The total bill for the meal, with a round of drinks, came to less than £30, which any way you look at is exceptional value for money.

3.6 stars

Philip Caveney

The Apartment, Edinburgh

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17/04/15

Edinburgh has a whole host of excellent restaurants but The Apartment, in Barclay Place, is undoubtedly one of its best, not only in its eclectic choice of ingredients, but also in terms of value for money. The set menu offers two superb courses for £15 and three for £17 (£19 after 7 pm). There’s also a selection of Chef’s specials, a choice of three kinds of healthy skewers, steaks and (a nice touch here)  three dishes that can be ordered as small or large portions, the former clearly aimed at customers with a lot more control than I have! On the night we visited, we were greeted by the maitre d, an affable and chatty Irishman, who certainly knew how to make us feel relaxed and happy. The staff are attentive, without being pushy and the surroundings, though smart and modern, are nonetheless atmospheric and entirely convivial.

For starters we had Pan Fried Squid with Chervil and Butter Sauce and Chicken and Black Pudding Terrine with Star Anise Apricots. If the descriptions sound enticing, let me assure you that the food absolutely lived up to them! The squid was deliciously light and suffused with a subtle lemon tang, while the black pudding had a spicy ‘melt-in-the-mouth’ quality, that ensured the platter was virtually licked clean.

On to the main courses: I went for the Roasted Pork Loin with Merguez, Soupy Puy Lentils and Crispy Pancetta while Susan ordered the Grilled Plaice Fillets with Wild Garlic Mash, Brown Shrimp and Mussel Vinaigrette. Once again, both courses were note perfect – the pork was succulent and perfectly offset by the dark, earthy lentils and the spicy Spanish sausage, while the fish was light and flaky, swimming in that citrusy mussel vinaigrette. Yum!

Was there room for pudding? You bet! And frankly, who could resist the Mille Feuille with Lemon & Lime Curd or the Dark Chocolate Pot with Dulche De Leche and Blueberry Jelly? Not us, that’s for sure. The former was light and buttery, the latter… well, if chocolate’s your thing, then you’re going to be very happy with this.

The meal was accompanied by a very decent Sauvignon Blanc which at £17 for a bottle, was once again, excellent value.

So, should you find yourself in Edinburgh, hungry and  in need of something a little bit special, take my advice and steer yourself up towards Bruntsfield and The Apartment. You won’t be disappointed.

5 stars

Philip Caveney

Kampung Ali, Fountainbridge, Edinburgh

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08/04/15

Looking for somewhere with an incredible sense of style? Maybe Kampung Ali isn’t for you. The decor is, at best, functional and the huge mural on the back wall, which depicts an eastern city at night, complete with twinkling neon lights is, dare I say it? A bit kitsch. Maybe you’re looking for somewhere with an extensive wine list? Again, you won’t find it here. The house white is a chardonnay and at a push, they’ll drag out a glass of rosé sauvignon blanc that tastes as though it was originally opened to celebrate the marriage of Charles and Diana – though beer lovers will fare rather better with a bottle of Tiger. But if you’re looking for superb Malaysian cuisine offered at great value prices, well then, that’s a different matter entirely.

We began with two classic starters. The Vegetarian Spring Rolls were light, flakey and delicately spiced, one of the best versions of this dish I’ve ever tried. The the Satay Chicken Skewers came immersed in a thick and tangy peanut sauce, that was finger-lickingly good. Both portions were on the generous side (those with faint appetites may want to share a starter.)  The main courses were equally stunning. I had Crispy Pork with Noodles, which had a clean, pleasing flavour spiced with lemongrass and chilli, just enough to make the taste buds tingle, but not too overpowering. Susan opted for King Prawn with Noodles, a big hearty bowl of fishy goodness, swimming in a broth that was fierce but satisfyingly sweetened with coconut milk. No diner at Kampung Ali can afford to miss out on a bowl of their Coconut Rice  which is light, sticky and fragrant.

A meal for two with drinks came in at £36, which in the City Centre, can only be viewed as exceptional value. So, come to Kampung Ali. Ignore the decor. Sit down and take your taste buds for a brisk trot around the park. You won’t be disappointed.

4.2 stars

Philip Caveney

Brassica Grill – Shaw Road, Heaton Moor

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02/03/15

Brassica is housed in what used to be a popular Spanish restaurant in the Heatons, La Casona. Under the guidance of acclaimed Chef, Paul Faulkner, it’s already acquired an avid following and on the Thursday night we attended, was filled with a lively crowd of hungry diners. When we’d phoned to book, we were told yes, the restaurant could accommodate us at our chosen time, but apologised in advance that they’d have to give us a ‘slightly inferior’ table. (The table was perfectly acceptable, but I liked the attention to detail.) The ambience in Brassica is pleasantly austere, quite a change from its more flamboyant Spanish origins. We decided to try the set menu, (two courses for £14, three for £17). We both ordered the same starter, a Venison Scotch Egg with Pickled Celery, Beetroot and Apple Chutney. This was superb, the spicy meat coated with a crispy outer layer and the egg caught just at the right point, the yolk soft and full-flavoured. The tangy accompaniment was just enough to set it off.

So far so good, but then the main courses arrived and were perhaps not quite so successful. I went for the Fish Pie, which was pleasant enough if a little watery. Served in a tin dish, it resembled decent pub grub, but was not up to the standard of that incredible starter – and the accompanying broccoli spears were limp and unspectacular. Susan opted for the ‘Blade of Beef with Carrots, Wild Garlic and Creamed Potato. The description prompted us to expect a thin slice of meat, but instead she was served a cake-shaped serving of pulled beef, which was flavoursome but disappointingly greasy. The carrots and potato elements were nicely done. Again, it wasn’t bad, but nowhere near as assured as what had gone before.

We decided to go a la carte for the sweet (there was a choice of just three desserts on the set menu, none of which really appealed.) Susan ordered a Raspberry Soufflé served with Vanilla Ice Cream and I went for a real old school dessert, Treacle Tart and Custard. Soufflés are notoriously difficult to pull off, but this one was perfection, light, fluffy with a refreshingly tart flavour. The treacle tart was a sweet bombshell, stickily encased in thick vanilla custard. In both cases, the plates were virtually licked clean.

So, great marks for the start and end, but not so much for the middle. On the Moor, of course, the restaurant to beat is Steve Pilling’s Damson, which time and again pulls off note-perfect courses with aplomb.To be fair, Brassica isn’t a million miles away from rivalling it, but may require a little more attention on those main courses.

4.1 stars

Philip Caveney