12/11/26
Hanover Street, Edinburgh
Our experience of Six by Nico so far has been mixed. During the Covid lockdowns, we enjoyed a couple of their ‘at home’ meals so much that we bought them as gifts for several friends and relatives, certain they’d be well appreciated. When the world opened up again and we were free to visit an actual restaurant, we wasted no time. Sadly, we were disappointed by the Ancient Rome menu we sampled.
A murder mystery though? That’s enough to draw us back in. We’re suckers for a story.
Our waitress, Alex, introduces the concept with enthusiasm, no mean feat considering how often she has to repeat it, service after service, day after day. We order some sparkling water (me) and a 0% Asahi (Phil) and settle down to read the character profiles. Just who are these suspects we’re dealing with?
The premise is simple. We’re in Hollow Creek, a small American town where, thirty years ago, best-selling crime writer Maggie Sawyer was killed. Her husband, Daniel, was convicted of the murder, but new evidence suggests he might be innocent – and it’s up to us to solve the case. With each course, we’re given more information, bringing us closer and closer to discovering the truth. Will we be able to work out whodunnit?
It’s a Thursday lunchtime and, even though it’s just the two of us non-drinkers, we have a lot of fun. I imagine the experience is even more entertaining if you’re out with a larger group for an evening, relishing paired wines and differing opinions.
The first three courses are starters, and we kick off with crispy fried chicken on a buckwheat waffle. I’m expecting to be able to eat this (buckwheat is gluten free) but my chicken comes served on a tater tot instead, so I guess there must be some wheat flour in the waffle mix. The kitchen clearly takes allergies seriously: the coating on my chicken is different from Phil’s too, and there’s a little GF sticker on the plate, which I find reassuring. There’s a smoked bacon dressing, which adds some flavour, but generally we both find this course a little bland. It’s fine. Just not special.
Next up is an ox cheek croquette served with a pumpkin velouté. My croquette comes without the breadcrumb coating, and it’s delicious. The velouté lacks seasoning though, and there’s no salt on the table. We request some and there’s an immediate improvement. What’s more, we get to play with a coloured lens to read a secret message that might help us find the murderer…
For course three, Philip has a Cuban Sandwich, which is a chorizo & smoked ham hough, while I go for the veggie option of goat’s cheese bomba. The food seems to be getting better with each successive course; Philip’s in particular is bold and flavoursome. And there’s another piece of evidence coming our way. We start to theorise about motives.
The fourth dish (the first of two mains) is billed as a clam chowder but it doesn’t look like any chowder I’ve had before. I thought ‘deconstructed’ dishes were considered passé these days, but the concept is alive and kicking here. Nonetheless, the roasted ling is well cooked, and perfectly complemented by a yummy crab bisque.
Coming in at number five is a chicken and wild mushroom casserole. Again, this isn’t so much a casserole as elements-of-a-casserole-arranged-on-a-plate – but there’s no denying how tasty it is. It’s certainly the best thing we’ve eaten so far. And what’s this? A UV light to uncover a hidden clue? Yes please.
Last but not least are the puddings. The maple apple cobbler is an absolute triumph, comprising a gloriously decadent baked apple delice, along with some oat and rye whiskey ice cream for Phil and an apple sorbet for me. Candied pecans add some extra punch (and crunch), and we both find ourselves eating as slowly as we can, trying to make it last as long as possible while we consider the various characters and why they might have killed Maggie.
We fail to identify the killer (we have elaborate theories that come to naught) but the real answer is satisfying. which is what really counts. We console ourselves with an add-on extra dessert: a cherry pop tart soft-serve ice cream. Phil’s comes in a cornet and mine in a bowl, and it’s a refreshing way to end the meal.
All in all, we have a grand old time. The food is decent enough but it’s the game-playing element that makes this work. If you’re looking for something different to entertain you, this American Murder Mystery is sure to hit the spot. But hurry, it ends soon!
4 stars
Susan Singfield
