Food

Restaurant Mark Greenaway

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11/08/15

North Castle Street, Edinburgh

So, you know how it is, you’re deeply embroiled in the Edinburgh Festival, you’re running from one show to another and it’s your first wedding anniversary. Why not, we thought, eat somewhere we haven’t reviewed yet? And rather than return to Bistro Moderne in Stockbridge where we celebrated our marriage, let’s visit its sister restaurant, Restaurant Mark Greenaway, up on Castle street. A good plan, we thought and made the booking.

The restaurant is more formal than it’s relaxed sibling, with a slightly austere feel. The place is completely deserted when we arrive, at 5.30, but soon fills up with a collection of (it has to be said) rather glum-looking punters who don’t appear to have very much to say to each other; but the staff are friendly enough and service is attentive. Since we’re on a tight budget, we opt for the market menu which offers three courses for £22 with an accompanying wine ‘flight’ for £18.

The starters duly arrive and look like little works of art. Susan has the Comfit Gartmont Farm Duck Terrine, which is accompanied by gingerbread, plum gel and foraged Scottish herbs. The terrine is lip-smackingly moist and full flavoured. The idea of serving it with gingerbread is inspired. It shouldn’t really work but somehow does. I sample the Smoked Salmon Canneloni (see picture) with sauce gribiche, saffron mayonnaise and mini melba toast. The powerful salty flavour of the salmon filling is perfectly cut by the accompanying white wine, (proof once again that a good Somellier is a fine thing indeed and Restaurant Mark Greenaway has not one, but two of them, who clearly know a thing or two about their subject and are happy to share their knowledge.)

On to the main courses. Susan chose Baked Fillet of Plaice, accompanied by sweet Cicely gnocchi, clam chowder and vanilla foam. The over-abundant foam seemed to us a slight misstep, the flavour more appropriate for a pudding, but the dish was otherwise perfectly cooked, the fish melt-in-the-mouth soft and the creamy clam chowder satisfyingly sticky. I had the 11 Hour Slow Roasted Pork Belly, served with spiced fillet, savoy cabbage, pommel pureé and toffee apple jus (see picture). This was note perfect, though I fear I caused some raised eyebrows when I requested a bowl of mustard (that’s just me. To my mind, meat without mustard is like… rhubarb without custard).

Speaking of which, for my dessert, accompanied by a thick, sweet wine, I had Rhubarb and Custard with sweet granola, poached rhubarb, custard espuma and rhubarb sorbet. It was, to be honest, quite delicious, the lightly cooked chunks of rhubarb giving the meal a delightful crunch and the sorbet definitely of the ‘Mmm’ variety. I made short work of it. Susan, meanwhile had the Dark Chocolate Fondant (for which the diner must allow fifteen minutes preparation time). This came surrounded by salted caramel, coffee macaroons, burnt white chocolate and vanilla ice cream. It was every bit as delightful as it sounds though the fondant itself was of the (slightly disappointing) miniature variety. Which is not to say that we were left hungry by any stretch of the imagination. But we could have managed a bit more of that fondant. Easily.

All in all, this was a satisfying meal and if I have a criticism of the restaurant, it’s simply that its staid, rather stuffy atmosphere belongs to a bygone age. Would it harm to relax a little? Maybe even introduce some background music? Just a thought. As for the food (that slightly odd vanilla foam aside) the restaurant’s reputation is clearly well-founded.

Would we recommend it? Hell yes.

4.3 stars

Philip Caveney

Damson – Tasting Menu

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Damson, Heaton Moor

17/07/15

We don’t generally review restaurants more than once and I’m more than aware that we have already waxed lyrical about Heaton Moor’s Damson a couple of times, but here’s the situation. We had something special to celebrate and it came to our attention that the restaurant now offered a six course tasting menu at £49.50 per head, served with matching wines for an extra £25. Now, I’ll grant you, this is probably not the kind off money you’d be looking to spend in an ordinary week, but for a special occasion, it’s something you might seriously consider trying. And let me ask you this. How can I not write about the best meal I have ever eaten? Seriously, it was that good. Please bear in mind, that though what I am about to describe may sound like a mountain of food, the portions are skilfully sized to ensure you can enjoy it all without feeling over faced – and the staff here are attentive, and will always accommodate you if you should ask for a short pause between courses.

We began with a tasting of seasonal soup, in this case, potato and fennel. Served in a cup, it was light, creamy and utterly delicious, just enough to whet the appetite and get those taste buds tingling for the delights to come. The soup was matched with a glass of citrusy Pino Grigiot. A very good start.

Next came grilled scallops, with compte cheese and cauliflower croquettes, accompanied by wild garlic, hazelnuts and truffle. Perfectly pitched and as light as air, this came with a glass of Circumstance Rosé, the slightly acidy tang of the wine a perfect companion for the moist and delicious scallop.

The third course was grilled fillet of plaice, served with Jersey royals, sprouting broccoli, sea aster, cockles, mussels and wild garlic pesto. If I had to choose a favourite dish from the selection, this might just take the edge. The plaice was melt-in-the mouth tender and delicately showcased by its delightful companions. The accompanying wine here was Picpoul de Pinet, a fruity zesty white. Sipped at beforehand it was okay, but tasted with the fish, it became exquisite and served as a perfect example of how intelligent wine-matching works.

Now for another standout: roasted rump of lamb with pea and mint mousseline, english asparagus, baby gem, whole grain mustard, morel mushrooms and salt and pepper sweetbreads. In a word, wow! The lamb was so tender and immersed in the mousseline, it tasted like heaven on a plate. Here, the chosen wine was a rich, robust red, Andes Peak Carmenere. Actually, on reflection, this course is neck-and-neck with the previous one as my favourite.

Time for a dessert? Oh yes, especially when it’s a chocolate cremeux with passion fruit and praline ice cream. Sometimes words fail to adequately describe just how delicious a sweet can be and this, I’m afraid, is one of those occasions. Suffice to say that the cremaux was… mmmmm. And the ice cream… aaah!

And so finally to cheese – or more accurately a generous tasting of three English and three French cheeses, served on a board and accompanied by bread, crackers, red grapes and a couple of sticks of celery. Even we struggled to finish this off completely but we were left comfortably full and ever so slightly sozzled, which is of course, the object of the exercise.

Make no mistake. This is a tasting menu to challenge the biggest names in the business and I can’t imagine how it might have been bettered. It’s customary in these reviews to focus on the meals shortcomings, but… try as I might, I couldn’t find one. I should perhaps point out that vegetarians needn’t feel left out of the game as a meat-free version is also available.

So, all of you out there who appreciate fine dining… the next time you have something special to celebrate, you know exactly where to go.

5 stars

Philip Caveney

Damson, Heaton Moor

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16/06/15

It’s not our usual practise to re-review a restaurant only a few weeks after we’ve visited, but in Damson’s case, our previous visit was spectacularly mistimed – only a few weeks before the place was given a major refurbishment and the menu overhauled. What’s more, since Steve Pilling’s establishment sets the bar for dining on ‘the Moor’ and because it was Susan’s birthday, now seemed as good a time as any to make an exception to the rule.

Apart from a few touches, Damson hasn’t changed that much inside, but the exterior has been completely repainted and the terrace is now surrounded by higher wooden enclosures, liberally planted with flowers and shrubs, while the seating and tables have all been replaced. It’s now an absolute pleasure to sit out in sunny weather with a drink (assuming, that is, that you can find such weather in Stockport!)

As for the menu, there’s a new selection of reasonably priced cocktails on offer and some sharing platters, one of which we decided to try instead of a conventional starter (though the platters are usually available only on the lunch menu.) These are generously sized wooden boards, which come loaded with four kinds of cured meat, four kinds of cheese, plenty of sourdough bread, butter, chutney, homemade pickles and your choice of three jars, each one packed with a delicious spread – there are eight jars to choose from. We opted for Duck with potted pear and hazelnut, Whitby Crab and Crayfish with avocado and Herb Goat’s Curd with salt baked beetroot. To say that each of these was delicious would be something of an understatement. They were, quite frankly, exquisite. A sharing board costs just £15 and at lunchtime, accompanied by a drink, are clearly a brilliant idea for two diners.

But this was a birthday evening so we moved on to a couple of main courses from the new set menu, now available till 9.30 on a weekday and till 6.30 at the weekend. it costs £15 for a main course, £20 for two courses and  £25 for three. My choice was the Slow Cooked Middle White Pork Belly with apricot, pak choy, curried lentils and potato. As ever, this was note perfect, the mildy spiced lentils proving the perfect accompaniment to that succulent, mouth-watering meat. Susan sampled the Grilled Fillet of Mackerel, with pesto creamed potato, tomato, olives, coriander and lemon. The fish was perfectly cooked, with a crispy exterior and a moist, richly flavoured interior, the intense flavour perfectly counterpointed by the delicately flavoured pesto mash.

Would there be room for any of those delicious desserts? Sadly no, mainly because the sharer had been so generously proportioned, but I’m not complaining. (See our previous review for our thoughts on Damson’s desserts!) Suffice to say that after six years, Damson is not resting on its laurels and the Moor’s other contenders are going to have to work really hard if they hope to challenge its dominance. Our meal with a decent bottle of Pino Grigio came to around £65, proof positive that you don’t have to pay out a fortune for fine cuisine.

5 stars

Philip Caveney

Damson, Heaton Moor

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29/05/15

Of all the restaurants I’ve ever eaten in (and they are many and varied), Damson remains my favourite – and not just because of the food.

Make no mistake, the food here is consistently delicious. But there’s that friendly, convivial vibe as well; the calm, relaxing decor; and the understated professionalism of the front of house team.

We’re here tonight for the early bird menu, which offers two courses for £16.95, or three for £19.95. Of course, we will eat three. The portions here are perfectly balanced, leaving the diner satisfied but not too full. There’s always room for one of their exquisite puddings.

To start, I opt for the tartare of Cheshire beef fillet, while Philip has  a chicken Caesar salad. The tartare is light and fresh and melts in the mouth, but Philip’s salad is even better. There’s an egg, which has been caught at exactly that moment between soft and hard, its orange yolk glistening most attractively. It’s anchovy-rich, a creamy delight of a starter, and certainly whets the appetite for what is yet to come.

Next up, I have the grilled fillet of sea bass, which comes with pesto creamed potato. Again, this is note-perfect, the fish all crispy skin and moist soft flesh. Olives and tomatoes add piquancy to the dish. I want to lick my plate. Philip has the roasted rump of lamb (for a supplement of £5); this comes with goats’ cheese mash, sweetbreads, braised baby gem, peas, broad beans and morels. It sounds like hearty fare, but it’s as delicate as can be, and the lamb is softer and richer than any I’ve tasted before.

Then there’s the pudding. Philip has the creme fraiche tart with crushed raspberries and strawberry sorbet, a sweet-sharp combination that literally has him whimpering with delight. I go for the chocolate cremeux with macerated strawberries and vanilla ice cream, the richness of the chocolate perfectly offset by the freshness of the fruit.

We’ve eaten in restaurants with bigger reputations than Damson, but nowhere else we’ve been to has yet rivalled it for such unpretentious but accomplished food. There is confidence here, and care too, and it makes for a most satisfying experience. We’ll certainly be back for more.

5 stars

Susan Singfield

Pomegranate, Edinburgh

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28/05/15

Situated just off Leith Walk, Pomegranate is an unpretentious bistro-style cafe serving Middle Eastern cuisine. The bright vibrant decor gives the place a cheery atmosphere, but be warned, the only wines and beers on offer are of the non-alcoholic variety, so if you want to drink something more punchy with your meal, bring your own. (No corkage is charged, which makes eating here even better value for money.)

There were three of us to dine and we were all very hungry. For starters we chose Soujek (Spicy Lebanese sausages sautéed in tomato, green pepper, garlic and chilli), Baly Merishke (barbecued lemon-scented chicken wings) and Kubba Halub (Seasoned minced lamb, mixed with sultanas, encased in crushed rice.) All three starters were lovely – the sausages were enveloped in a rich spicy sauce, the chicken wings crisp yet succulent and the Kubba Halub had a crunchy exterior and a melt-in-the-mouth centre.

On to the mains – I sampled the Joujeh (half a chargrilled chicken marinated in lemon, tomato and garlic), Susan went for the Chargrilled Whole Sea Bass (marinated with lemon and Persian sumac and served with a side of bamya – a beef and okra stew, or tapsi – an eggplant sauce). Our companion, who’d eaten here before, went for his favourite,  Qozy Lamb (braised lamb on the bone, served with tapsi or bamya.) Once again all dishes were note perfect and came accompanied with generously-sized mounds of clean-tasting basmati rice and the restaurant’s own naan breads, thinner and somewhat crispier than their Indian brethren, but absolutely delicious.

Did we eat everything that was put before us? Yes, we did and licked our platters clean. Did we have any room to sample the selection of great-sounding desserts on offer? No we did not. But one thing’s for sure. If you’re looking for great tasting middle Eastern cuisine in the heart of Edinburgh, this is where you should come. Outstanding! Oh yes, and I promised to mention our waitress for the evening, the charming and friendly Alicja, who looked after us in friendly but unobtrusive style!

4.5 stars

Philip Caveney

Soba, Edinburgh

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24/06/15

We generally avoid reviewing chain restaurants but with venues only in Edinburgh, Glasgow and (recently opened) Leeds, Soba seemed suitably niche enough to make an exception. Describing its offerings as ‘Pan Asian Street-Food,’ this self-styled bar/kitchen occupies a slot on Hanover Street and offers a funky, lively place to dine, with tables arranged on several levels. The interior decorator seems to have a predilection for different kinds of light fittings and manga style art, but the overall effect is much more pleasing than I’m making it sound.

For starters we chose Sweetcorn and Coconut Fritters, which were every bit as light and delicately spiced as the name would lead you to expect: and Char Siu Steamed Pork Buns with Ginger Plums. These were deliciously soft and sticky and when you got over the initial surprise of them being so gloopy, were really rather enjoyable. The ginger plums lent the dish a contrasting piquancy.

The main courses were two familiar favourites. As somebody who spent several years of my childhood in Malaysia, I couldn’t resist the Nasi Goreng, a deliciously spicy mixture of rice, chicken and shrimps, served with chicken skewers, a thick, lip-smackingly good peanut sauce and shrimp crackers. The whole thing is topped off with a soft fried egg. (In my childhood, Nasi Goreng was our equivalent of fish and chips. A man used to cycle around with a heated box of the stuff, which would be served wrapped in a banana leaf. Obviously, in that version the egg was of the scrambled variety but we loved it! Soba’s version was much more stylish but had an authentic taste that took me right back to those happy days.) Susan sampled the Pad Thai, a generously sized bowl of rice noodles and prawns, intensely flavoured with lime, ginger and tamarind. Again, it was everything that a Pad Thai should be – a delightful commingling of ingredients, topped with crunchy bean sprouts.

As I said earlier, portions are on the generous side, so we eschewed the dessert menu this time around. Neither was it the right opportunity to sample any of Soba’s cocktails, of which they are clearly very proud. I should perhaps mention that they are now offering an express lunch with two courses for just £8.95 (which is a bargain any way you look at it) and regular diners might like to consider investing in a trade card, which costs just £25 and offers 25% off main courses, cocktails for just £5 and ‘house pours’ – four of the most popular spirit and mixer combinations – for just £2.

Our meal for two with a couple of drinks came to just over £30. We’ll most certainly be eating there again.

4.2 stars 

Philip Caveney

Malt Cross, Nottingham

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10/05/15

The Malt Cross must qualify as Nottingham’s most extraordinary dining venue. Built as a music hall in 1877 by one Charles Weldon, entertainer, it’s charming hanging stage has played host to the like of Dame Nellie Melba, Stan Laurel and even Charlie Chaplin. It’s one of just four existing music halls in the UK and the only one that still offers live entertainment. Thanks to a £1.3 million lottery grant, it’s been lovingly refurbished, retaining as many of the original features as possible and as well as exuding tons of atmosphere, the place is a regular hive of creativity, offering theatrical events, concerts, clubs, societies and even studio space in which to film videos. Even more remarkably, it’s built over the site of a monastery that was founded in the 1200’s and down in the sub basement, there’s a network of eerie-looking caves.

As if all this wasn’t enough, it’s also a dining venue. We were there for Sunday lunch and though there was a decent al a carte menu, which includes the ubiquitous roast dinner, there was also something I haven’t seen elsewhere. On the table is a pad full of order forms. As you can see from the illustration, there are just three smoked meats to choose from – Beef Brisket, Pulled Pork or Pulled Chicken – and two vegetarian options – Portobello Mushroom with melted halloumi or a ‘Beet Burger’. Each option costs just £6 and you can wrap it in your choice of three breads or go for a healthy salad on the side.

However, once you have chosen your basic ingredients, you can then customise your meal to your heart’s content by ticking up to thirteen ‘toppings’ at no extra cost. For a pound or so more, you can also choose from six side dishes. You then hand in your orders and sit back with a well-earned drink.

I tried the beef brisket and Susan opted for the pulled chicken. Both arrived promptly, displayed on unpretentious enamel plates and both meals were hearty and delicious. (A tiny niggle – my potato wedges with rosemary salt were delicious but could have done with being a little bit hotter. No big deal.) The portions were generous enough to deter us from looking at the dessert menu, but I can report that in the bar area, there’s a whole election of freshly baked cakes on offer, the profits from which go to a local charity.

So, next time you’re in Nottingham, head down to James Street for a great value lunch in one of the most amazing settings you will ever witness. I guarantee it will be a unique  dining experience.

4 stars

Philip Caveney

My Big Fat Greek Kitchen, Edinburgh

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01/05/15

We visited this restaurant after a recommendation from a friend. It’s situated on Brougham Street, a stone’s throw from the Meadows. The interior is fairly Spartan and has the atmosphere of a simple taverna. I don’t know for sure, but I’d hazard a guess that MBFGK is a family-run affair and it’s clear from the hugs and kisses handed out by the proprietor to various guests as they departed, that this place generates a lot of return custom. Service, it has to be said, through warm and friendly, was a tad erratic. Our waitress kept galloping about the place to rearrange chairs and tables, even in the middle of taking our order.

For starters, I chose Whitebait, a dish that’s notoriously difficult to find these days. These were somewhat larger than expected and nicely cooked, lightly dusted with breadcrumbs. They came with nothing more than a small bowl of mayonnaise and the traditional slice of lemon. Susan chose Feta Cheese with kalamata olives and that’s exactly what she got – a generous hunk of cheese and a pile of bitter-tasting olives; but the dish needed something more to complete it – a couple of slices of pitta bread would have been a welcome addition. Perhaps some salad garnish?

For the main course, I went with Stifado – a rich and peppery beef stew. It arrived slapped into a white bowl, accompanied by a couple of pieces of dry toasted bread and an almost risible selection of fries – there were perhaps six of them in total, tasting of very little. The stew itself was hearty and satisfying, but once again, the dish felt incomplete and there was no attempt to make it look appetising. Susan’s choice of Lamb Souvlaki was pretty good, I thought, a generously sized skewer of tender meat,  onion and peppers, resting on a bed of rice, but once again, the dish looked rather underwhelming. The chef clearly knows how to prepare the meat elements of the meals, but would do well, I think, to put a little more effort into his presentation skills.

We drank a bottle of house white and I would have expected this to be a traditional Greek wine – an Assyrtiko, perhaps or a Savatiano, but instead we were served a (fairly decent) Italian Pino Grigio. Go figure. Overall, we enjoyed the food, but the name leads you to expect some kind of gastronomic blowout, which this certainly wasn’t. Don’t get me wrong. It was decent food, but with a little more work on the presentation, it would have scored much higher.

3.2 stars

Philip Caveney

Kro, Heaton Moor

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31/04/15

Kro has been in a prime location on the Moor since 2007. Back in the day, it was mostly famous for it’s Danish-inspired specialities, but that aspect has been somewhat reined in and these days it operates as an upmarket pub grub venue. The place has a relaxed atmosphere and the open plan, glass-walled extension makes for pleasant dining, especially in the summer months. On Sunday evenings there’s ‘Song Swap’ where various musicians come together to perform their material. The staff are relaxed and friendly and nothing is too much trouble. Make no mistake, this isn’t a place where you’d come for haute cuisine. If however, you’re in the market for a great value bit of scran and you’re not in the mood to cook something at home, this is hard to beat. There’s a fairly comprehensive a la carte and every evening, you’ll find a selection of specials chalked up on a board, offering two courses for £10 and three for £12.50.

On our latest visit, we decided to stick entirely to the specials board. I began with Lamb Kofta served with tzatziki, rocket salad and pitta bread. The Kofta was spicy and crunchy, though there was only a single skewer. It was accompanied by a generous side bowl of tzatziki and a dry pitta bread. Susan’s choice was Breaded Salmon Bites with sweet chilli sauce. The bites were light and fluffy, delicately flavoured and nicely set off by the sweet sauce. I thought it was the better of the two starters, certainly more generous, though both were perfectly acceptable.

For the main course, I sampled the Crab Cakes, served with wilted spinach, tartare sauce and French Fries. The cakes themselves were a little dry, though flavoursome enough and there was a large bowl of tartare sauce into which to dunk them. The fries were unremarkable and in my estimation, could have done with another minute in the fryer. Once again, Susan fared better with her choice of Slow Roasted Pork Belly, served with crushed new potato cake and a saje (sic) and onion gravy. The pork was melt in the mouth tender with a pleasing crunchy top layer and the rich onion gravy brought everything together nicely.

The portions were generous enough to eschew a sweet, though all three choices sounded appealing. The total bill for the meal, with a round of drinks, came to less than £30, which any way you look at is exceptional value for money.

3.6 stars

Philip Caveney

The Apartment, Edinburgh

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17/04/15

Edinburgh has a whole host of excellent restaurants but The Apartment, in Barclay Place, is undoubtedly one of its best, not only in its eclectic choice of ingredients, but also in terms of value for money. The set menu offers two superb courses for £15 and three for £17 (£19 after 7 pm). There’s also a selection of Chef’s specials, a choice of three kinds of healthy skewers, steaks and (a nice touch here)  three dishes that can be ordered as small or large portions, the former clearly aimed at customers with a lot more control than I have! On the night we visited, we were greeted by the maitre d, an affable and chatty Irishman, who certainly knew how to make us feel relaxed and happy. The staff are attentive, without being pushy and the surroundings, though smart and modern, are nonetheless atmospheric and entirely convivial.

For starters we had Pan Fried Squid with Chervil and Butter Sauce and Chicken and Black Pudding Terrine with Star Anise Apricots. If the descriptions sound enticing, let me assure you that the food absolutely lived up to them! The squid was deliciously light and suffused with a subtle lemon tang, while the black pudding had a spicy ‘melt-in-the-mouth’ quality, that ensured the platter was virtually licked clean.

On to the main courses: I went for the Roasted Pork Loin with Merguez, Soupy Puy Lentils and Crispy Pancetta while Susan ordered the Grilled Plaice Fillets with Wild Garlic Mash, Brown Shrimp and Mussel Vinaigrette. Once again, both courses were note perfect – the pork was succulent and perfectly offset by the dark, earthy lentils and the spicy Spanish sausage, while the fish was light and flaky, swimming in that citrusy mussel vinaigrette. Yum!

Was there room for pudding? You bet! And frankly, who could resist the Mille Feuille with Lemon & Lime Curd or the Dark Chocolate Pot with Dulche De Leche and Blueberry Jelly? Not us, that’s for sure. The former was light and buttery, the latter… well, if chocolate’s your thing, then you’re going to be very happy with this.

The meal was accompanied by a very decent Sauvignon Blanc which at £17 for a bottle, was once again, excellent value.

So, should you find yourself in Edinburgh, hungry and  in need of something a little bit special, take my advice and steer yourself up towards Bruntsfield and The Apartment. You won’t be disappointed.

5 stars

Philip Caveney