Food

Pokusevski’s

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16/04/16

Shaw Road, Heaton Moor

Finding the right place for a leisurely Saturday afternoon lunch, isn’t always easy – especially when you’re meeting up with a couple of old friends who are bringing along their first baby in order to introduce him to you. Pokusevki’s has been on Shaw Road for many years, but it was previously an upmarket delicatessen with a couple of indoor tables and a few more out in a (rather nice) walled garden at the back. But recently it’s undergone a transformation; the indoor dining space has been extended into what was previously the garden and the result is a charming, bustling interior that no longer has to bow to the vagaries of the English weather. Background music is kept discrete enough so that conversation can flow without the need to bellow over the top of it – exactly what we needed. (There’s also a new Pokusevki’s at Media City. Do be careful when making a booking to ensure that you’re talking to the right establishment, something that we spectacularly failed to do. Luckily, they managed to fit us in anyway!)

We took our seats and perused the lunchtime menu. The staff were relaxed and helpful – when a highchair was requested for the smallest diner it was promptly provided. The soup of the day was pumpkin so we all chose a bowl of that and a toasted sandwich apiece, each of which can be supplied on white bread, wholemeal bread or focaccia. The food arrived quickly and when it came, it was piping hot and nicely done. All right, soup and a sandwich isn’t the toughest meal to prepare, but it’s amazing how often places can get it wrong. This however was wonderful. The soup was thick and wholesome, deliciously seasoned and satisfying. My club sandwich was generously loaded with chicken, bacon, rocket and mature cheddar, while Susan’s goat cheese sandwich featured caramelised onion, tomato and rocket. A side order of chips was just the ticket, crispy and salty and exactly what was needed.

We had coffees to follow and the bill came to around £15 per head. Mission accomplished. While we there, we couldn’t help noticing the long list of tapas-style dishes and main courses available later in the day, so we resolved to return at some point for further investigation.

But for what we needed today, this would be hard to beat.

4.5 stars

Philip Caveney

 

Tony Singh at Apex Grassmarket

Grassmarket, Edinburgh

12/04/16

The Apex hotel is an unprepossessing location for a meal, despite the always startling view of the castle from the plate glass windows. It’s got that sterile vibe that so often permeates hotel restaurants: too corporate, too samey-same.

But Tony Singh’s new restaurant here has garnered a lot of press attention, and we’re keen to see if it’s as interesting as they say, so we meet up with a couple of friends and take our seats with open minds.

To be honest, it’s all a little bit odd, and it takes us a long time to decide what we are going to eat. It’s called a sharing menu, but the dishes, in the main, don’t seem like things that are easy to share. It’s called ‘fusion’ too, but it’s not well fused. “Confusion,” mutters one of our companions, and she’s not far wrong.

Still, the food when it arrives is mostly very good indeed. There’s Vuhra (a spiced lamb kebab with mint & coriander sauce and tamarind dressing), which – once we’ve gone through the rigamarole of cutting it into four – Philip and I adore, the spicing intense and packing a real punch. Our friends are not as keen, but they’re not fans of red meat anyway; if you are, you’ll like this one. The Haggis Pakora are delicious too, and easier to share. They’re robustly flavoured, and accompanied by two contrasting dips. We all enjoy the BBQ Pork Doughnut, filled with sticky pulled pork, sweet with maple syrup, smoked bacon and a whiskey glaze. It’s possibly the best thing we eat all night, but it’s definitely one to consume in moderation: I don’t imagine they’re recommending this much fat and sugar in any health clinic.

We try the Tiger Salad with Cured Salmon too; it’s fresh and zingy, an excellent contrast to all the deep fried food we’ve been indulging in. The Fish Taco with Crema and Loco Salsa is a similarly light, and wonderfully flavoured dish. Less impressive are the Fish Balls (poached & fried with Manong’s Grill Restaurant’s famous sauce). The sauce is indeed very tasty, but the fish balls themselves are oddly chewy, and somewhat unpleasantly textured. These are the only real ‘miss’ of the night, and can probably be forgiven among so many ‘hits.’

We have dessert too, sharing Churros and Sliders; the former are unexpectedly dense while the slider, with its chunky brownies and intense tasting ‘monkey blood’ is better, but I can’t help wishing I’d ordered the more whimsical Tuck Shop Float, which would have been a lighter end to what is actually a rather heavy meal. We can’t complain about the price though – £35 per head for seven sharing plates, four desserts and several rounds of drinks is good value for money, especially in the heart of the city.

All in all, we’re glad we’ve tried this restaurant. The food is great. But I’m not sure it’s somewhere we’ll come again; it’s all a bit lacking in cohesion and atmosphere.

3.9 stars

Susan Singfield

The Easy Fish Co.

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Heaton Moor, Stockport

31/03/16

We were in the mood to celebrate, and the release of my latest novel seemed to offer a spurious excuse, so we resolved to eat at the Easy Fish Co. We dined here soon after the place opened, before we’d even started writing this blog and remembered the experience fondly, so back we came to investigate further.

Like most restaurants on ‘the Moor,’ the EFC is situated close to Damson, that fabulous venue against which all other Moor eateries must, inevitably, be measured. Rather like the FishWorks in London, the EFC is a fishmonger by day and a restaurant by night, so there’s clearly no problem in obtaining fresh ingredients for the meals. The staff are relaxed and friendly and the service is on the leisurely side – we sat down at 6.45 and didn’t leave the place until 8.45, but the bustling, congenial atmosphere was nice enough and we had a decent bottle of Pino Grigio to drink, so there was no great hurry.

We chose two starters, which we shared. The ‘Taster Board’ comprised a selection of fishy things – charred baby squid with sweet and sour peppers, whitebait, poached king prawns and pea aranchi (a kind of croquette) with mint crème fraiche. We also sampled a jar of smoked fish pate with a golden raisin chutney, served with toasted bread. The pate was the star of the show, light, citrusy and deliciously smoky, and the aranchi and poached prawns were also perfectly done. The squid though, was a tad rubbery and without those zesty peppers in support, wouldn’t have tasted of all that much. The whitebait was disappointing, the flavour a little muddy and the coating not as crisp as I would have liked. A few of them were left, which isn’t like me at all.

On to the main courses. I’ve always loved swordfish, and have often eaten it in little beach bars in Spain where the steak you’re given is so generous it could almost double as an eiderdown. This was a more realistic portion, two triangular steaks served on a bed of sweet potato, with scorched pak choi, a green Thai creme fraiche, beansprouts and sweet chilli. It was, in short, sublime and whoever thought of pairing it with sweet potato should really take a bow, because it worked brilliantly. Susan had opted for bouillabaisse and when it came to the table, we couldn’t help staring at it, because though it looked nicely cooked and presented, this wasn’t really a bouillabaisse at all, which really should be a hearty fish stew, swimming in a spicy, full-flavoured stock that has been simmering away for several days. OK, the medley of perfectly cooked fish on the plate came with a little pot of thick, creamy sauce to pour over, but this was not bouillabaisse as we know it. (A member of staff later explained that this was the chef’s own take on the classic dish, which is fair enough, but the name brings certain expectations and no matter how nicely the meal is done, there’s a sense of disappointment when you realise it’s not going to be what you actually wanted.)

As it was a special occasion, we thought we’d sample some desserts and these proved to be so delicious they were well worth the wait. I had caramelised bananas with peanut crumb, served with a salted caramel rum sauce and ice cream, which tasted every bit as delicious as it sounds. The rum sauce was a particular delight, delicately flavoured and ‘lick the plate clean’ satisfying. Susan had the special, an Affogato – two scoops of ice cream with an espresso coffee and a hearty shot of amaretto to pour over. It was, she proclaimed, a coffee-lover’s dream. Both desserts had an expertly made tuile to go with it and there were fresh strawberries and little blobs of intensely flavoured fruit compote to further enhance your eating pleasure.

So, all in all, a very good meal in agreeable surroundings, with just a couple of details that might have been improved on. And while I can hardly detract points for calling a dish something that it isn’t (particularly when the dish in question is cooked with such skill) I would humbly suggest that they find a new name for that chef’s take on a classic dish.

4 stars

Philip Caveney

Virgilio’s Pizzeria and Portuguese Grill

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Colwyn Bay, North Wales

12/03/16

We were invited to a family birthday and the chosen location was Virgilio’s, which is tucked away on a quiet street in Colwyn Bay, where it has been a popular venue for many years. It features a pleasant, trattoria-style dining area, lively and bustling on the Saturday evening we attended and serviced by attentive staff. Though Portuguese in origin (the family originally came from Madeira) there’s also a wide selection of Italian dishes and Gluten-free food is available on request.

For starters, I chose some Spare Ribs, a generously sized portion swimming in a piquant sticky barbecue sauce. I made very short work of it and there was much licking of fingers in the process. (Try not to do it, it’s hard!) Susan chose a bowl of Mussels, seasoned in garlic and coriander and offered with a choice of cream or tomato sauces (she opted for the latter). The mussels were cooked perfectly, light, zesty, a splendid appetiser.

For the main course, I went for Spaghetti Carbonara, something of a default order for me whenever pasta is on offer. I love a good carbonara and they can be surprisingly hard to find, but this one was particularly satisfying, thick and gloopy, with crisp crunchy bacon and plenty of parmesan cheese sprinkled on top. Susan decided on another Italian classic, Lasagna Al Forno. This too was delicious, cooked with a white wine sauce and topped with a thick layer of mozzarella, it came accompanied by a couple of slices of garlic bread. Glancing around the other diners, I saw that a couple of people had selected Espetada Carne, long skewers of cubed rump steak, marinated with rock salt, bay leaves and garlic. It looked great but sadly, nobody was offering me a taste! Up at the top of the table there was a whole Sea Bream, which appeared to be very well cooked and presented and the vegetarians among the party had chosen a Fungi Stroganoff and various types of Pizza, all of which looked pretty good. One point that I particularly liked was that everything that came to the table arrived piping hot, which isn’t always the case in trattoria dining.

The wine and beer flowed and spirits were high. Susan had baked a rather fancy cake, so there was no need to order dessert, but I enjoyed my visit to Virgilio’s and would go again, like a shot.

4.4 stars

Philip Caveney

 

Fishworks

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Swallow Street, London

16/01/15

We were in London to review a show and decided we’d like to dine afterwards, somewhere we hadn’t tried before. Fishworks have two venues, one in Marylebone and the other on Swallow Street, the latter just a ten minute walk from the Wyndham Theatre. It being a Saturday evening, amidst the general chaos of the Lumiere Festival, we booked in advance a couple of days beforehand. On arrival, we were delighted to see that the venue had its own fishmonger right there on site, a huge marble slad laden with ice and displaying an impressive array of fishy delights, so there was clearly no danger of the ingredients not being fresh enough. The place was packed but our seats were all ready for us and though the tables  were all fairly close to each other, the atmosphere was convivial and the staff pleasant and attentive.

We were 0n a budget so we opted for the set menu, which offered two courses for £18.95 or £21.95 for three, which in the heart of the capital is excellent value. I began with the Brixham fish soup, served with Gruyere croutons and a small bowl of rouille, a light sauce of olive oil, garlic, saffron and chilli peppers. The soup was delicious, thick and smooth, with a real depth of flavour. Susan opted for a bowl of steamed mussels, in a white wine and garlic sauce, served with lemon thyme and shallots. This too was spot on and happily didn’t feature any cream, which is generally the easiest way to spoil a bowl of mussels.

For the main course, I ordered the homemade fishcake with buttered spinach and hollandaise. I’m a big fan of the humble fishcake, but it’s surprising how many chefs manage to get it wrong. How often have we been served something that resembles a deep fried hockey puck? No such problems here, though. The generously proportioned fish cake was light, feathery, delicately spiced and augmented by a  rich Hollandaise sauce, which made it an absolute delight. Susan had the fillet of sea bream, served on a bed of shaved cucumber, with a chilli and mint salad. Again, just as it should be, light, cooked just so. We shared a side portion of chips, which were old-school good, crispy and scrumptious, with no oily aftertaste.

Unusually, we eschewed pudding and both ordered a second glass of the rather pleasant sauvignon blanc that is Fishwork’s house wine. And then it was out onto the street to fight our way through the packed crowds gawping at the illuminations floating in the air above us. We made it back to Euston station by the skin of our teeth.

Fishworks has a lot going for it. If you feel like splashing out, the a la carte offers a selection of more indulgent delights and there’s a daily selection of specials chalked up on boards around the venue. Amidst the ubiquitous chain restaurants that seem to dominate theatre-land, this is a little gem worth seeking out.

4.2 stars

Philip Caveney

 

Fishers In The City

 

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22/12/15

Thistle Street, Edinburgh

This restaurant came highly recommended and seemed like the perfect place to enjoy a pre-Christmas meal with a couple of friends. The venue was warm and welcoming, arranged on three levels, with subtly twinkling Christmas lights and friendly and attentive staff.

Annoyingly (at least for the purposes of this review) all four diners opted for the same starter – the Twice Baked Crayfish Fondue,  though there were several other temptations on offer. This proved to be a delight, rich, creamy and peppery, served on a bed of fresh rocket with tangy smoked tomato relish. It was simply delicious and all four portions were quickly polished off.

The main courses ended up as a 50-50 split. Two of us opted for the Fillet of Peterhead Halibut. The perfectly cooked fillet was served on a couple of spinach and ricotta rotolos, the pasta deliciously al dente, the layers of spinach rich with the tang of iron. There was a splash of orange and sage dressing to set the whole thing off perfectly. The other two diners chose the Whole Roast Sea Bass. Again, the fish perfectly cooked, the flesh falling from the bone and served with the head on, this came accompanied by a pea shoot pear and fennel salad, with a pecorino, maple syrup and caraway dressing, which was light and refreshing.

Did we have room for dessert? Well, it is nearly Christmas! Once again there was a two way split on this – two of us opted for  the Chocolate and Hazelnut Tart, which was dense and rich with bitter chocolate and came with a slice of salted praline crunch and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. The other two diners had the Pear Parfait, a sweet and delicate confection served with liquorice jelly and mulled pear sorbet.

We drank a couple of bottles of a very decent house white and we all announced that we would recommend Fishers In The City as a lovely place to meet and eat.

4.2 stars

Philip Caveney

 

Burger

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24/11/15

Fountainbridge, Edinburgh

To be honest, I’d intended to go somewhere else entirely. (Kampung Ali, a low priced Malaysian joint on the road into Fountainbridge, really worth checking out) – but as luck would have it, the night I called it was booked out for a ‘musical evening’ and no food was being served. Rats!

Then I remembered Burger, just a bit further up the same road, a place which (let’s face it) has a name that gives you a fairly good intimation of what you might expect to find on the menu. And I thought, hey,  why not give it a shot?

It’s a utilitarian kind of joint, plain furnishings, no frills, but it’s clean and bright and friendly. You order at the counter, you’re given a little gadget which flashes when your food is ready (they are very quick here) and you collect the food yourself. The meal is served on a tin tray and the restaurant prides itself on being environmentally friendly. Even the cutlery is made from biodegradable corn starch. Of course, a burger isn’t likely to be top of anybody’s gastronomic highlights, but this was nicely done, (and it’s amazing how many places can get a simple burger wrong). The beef patties were thick and juicy, served on a lightly toasted brioche bun and featured generous amounts of cheese, sliced tomatoes, onions and gherkins, together with a splash of the restaurant’s tangy homemade sauce. Ketchup and French’s mustard were available if required.

The chips, cooked with their skin on, actually tasted as though they’d been made from fresh potatoes, which might sound obvious, but sadly, isn’t always the case. I kept things straightforward, going for the classic option, but there are other burgers of ever increasing complexity and price tags (katsu chicken burger anyone?) For those who don’t really care for burgers, there’s also a selection of hot dogs. I know, live dangerously.

My meal, with a can of drink, came to a very reasonable £9.35. Sometimes you want something quick and simple and in that situation, Burger  hits the spot very nicely. Perfect for a no nonsense meal and for those who are watching the pennies. The earth won’t move but you’ll come out feeling pleasantly full and here, that seems to be the object of the exercise.

4 stars

Philip Caveney

The Heatons Tandoori

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Heaton Moor, Stockport

05/11/15

We all have our favourite curry house. For those who live around ‘The Moor’ it’s generally a toss-up between The Kushroom Koly and the Heatons Tandoori. We’ve always favoured the latter, not just because of the friendliness of the staff but also because of the impeccable standard of the food. Tucked away on Shaw Road, it’s an unprepossessing-looking establishment, but take a walk in that direction any day of the week and you’ll notice that one restaurant is nearly always busy – and that’s the Heatons Tandoori. It’s not exactly a Johnny come lately either. It’s been in its current location for 25 years

We start (naturally) with some poppadoms, served with bowls of mango chutney, raita, chopped onions and (always my favourite) lime pickle, which is hot and sweet and sour all at the same time. We also have a portion of tandoori lamb chops, which we choose to share, because the main courses here are always on the generous side. The chops come piping hot from the clay oven, nestling on some freshly chopped salad. They are perfectly cooked, spicy, juicy and featuring those lovely charred edges that are such a delight. The bones are quickly stripped of every morsel of flesh.

The main courses are also note perfect – a chicken dansak which is gloriously thick with lentils and a king prawn balti, deliciously spiced and featuring large chewy tiger prawns. We have these with a portion of boiled rice and a couple of huge nan breads, a plain one for me and a peshwari for Susan. The Heatons’ nan breads are rather splendid things, light as feathers and the size of zeppelins, they’re perfect to tear apart and dip into your sauces.

Because there’s never any hope of polishing off those gigantic portions, we ask for the remains to be bagged up, something the staff here are always happy to do, and we head for home, knowing that there’s a whole other delicious meal to be conjured from what’s in the bag. Susan is given a chrysanthemum on the way out, an enduring tradition which we’ve never really quite understood, but it matters not. Consistency is the name of the game when it comes to Indian food and we’ve never been disappointed by a meal at the Heatons.

Get down there and give it a try. You won’t be disappointed.

4.5 stars

Philip Caveney

Bistrot Des Alpilles

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30/10/15

St Remy de Provençe

As restaurants in Provençe go, Bistrot Des Alpilles Is markedly different from the others – forget the traditional, old world settings that are generally the norm here  – this light, airy and spacious venue, with glass windows on three sides, is a stylish new build with a decidedly contemporary feel. The effect is rather like eating in a large and luxuriously appointed conservatory. We’re the first diners to arrive but are soon followed by other Friday night customers, all in search of some fine dining. The good news is, they’ve come to the right place. The service here is prompt and the staff are friendly.

There are four of us and we decide to choose from the 24 euro menu, which offers a selection of four dishes in each section. The starters include a memorable duck confit, served on a puy lentil salad. The warm fowl has a superb smokey flavour and is perfectly set off by the delightfully chewy lentils and the piquancy of the dressed salad. There’s also a charolais au boeuf served with al dente vegetables, and flavoured with pesto and parmesan; one of our party goes for an ouef joliet, a lightly boiled egg  in a brioche bun, served with porcini mushrooms. All the starters are note perfect, which bodes well for the main courses.

I opt for the mitonné de jour de boeuf (a chunky stew of ox cheeks in a succulent red wine sauce) which comes accompanied by a small dish of potatoes, mushrooms and crispy smoked bacon. The stew is delicious enough to require mopping up with chunks of freshly baked bread. Susan has the concigglionni aux moules safranées (saffron flavoured mussels on fresh pasta shells, served with slivers of smoked salmon). The pasta is clearly made in-house and its cooked to perfection. Again, there’s very little here to criticise and plenty to enjoy.

In our experience, if things are going to go wrong in France, it will be with the desserts – but I’m delighted to report that there are no problems here. There’s a fondant au chocolate, which is everything it ought to be – a deliciously light exterior which when broken into with a spoon gives up its rich, chocolate filing in an aromatic puddle. It comes with a pool of pistachio custard and a generous dollop of pecan nut ice cream. It doesn’t hang around on my plate for long. Susan’s soufflé gourmet glacé au caramel is every bit as delightful as the title suggests – perfectly set and deliciously flavoured.

As ever, we drink a bottle of the local rosé wine and after some discussion, we decide that we really can’t fault anything we’ve had here tonight. So it gets full marks. The sad thing is, we’re heading home tomorrow, but it concludes our week’s visit to Provençe in winning style.

5 stars

Philip Caveney

Les Saveurs

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28/10/15

St Remy de Provençe

Les Saveurs is a delightful little restaurant in the heart of St Remy, with space for about forty diners. We’re here on a quiet Wednesday in October, so it’s far from full, but there’s still a convivial, friendly atmosphere, and we’re ready to enjoy ourselves.

We’ve learned to order rosé wine when visiting Provençe; it’s not our preferred hue when we’re in Britain, but it’s the prevalent colour here, and tends to be better than our habitual white. We’re delighted today to see a selection from the local Mas de la Dame vineyard, which we visited earlier in the afternoon. At €21 for a bottle, it’s a fresh, crisp-tasting drink, and well worth every cent.

There’s a three-course set menu at €26, but we opt for the a la carte today; we’re not hungry enough for starters or puddings, and the main courses sound delicious.

Our companions both opt for the filet de boeuf angus, a generous slab of steak that’s cooked to perfection, soft and pink and tender throughout. There are garlicky roast vegetables to accompany it, and some skin-on chips that seal the deal: this is truly appetising fare.

I have l’agneau des Alpes, a lamb steak stuffed with sausage meat, with a lamb cutlet on top. The lamb is perfect: succulent and tasty – and served with ratatouille and crushed potatoes.

But the star is the bouillabaisse Philip chooses, a hearty bowl of intense fish stew, chock-full of crab, red mullet, dogfish, scallops, and one enormous langoustine. Served with the traditional croutons, cheese and aioli, this is a shining example, showing exactly what this dish can be.

It’s hard to fault food this good, and I’m not going to. If you’re ever in St Remy de Provençe, and looking for somewhere to eat, I’d suggest you give Les Saveurs a go.

4.8 stars

Susan Singfield