The Heatons Tandoori

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Heaton Moor, Stockport

05/11/15

We all have our favourite curry house. For those who live around ‘The Moor’ it’s generally a toss-up between The Kushroom Koly and the Heatons Tandoori. We’ve always favoured the latter, not just because of the friendliness of the staff but also because of the impeccable standard of the food. Tucked away on Shaw Road, it’s an unprepossessing-looking establishment, but take a walk in that direction any day of the week and you’ll notice that one restaurant is nearly always busy – and that’s the Heatons Tandoori. It’s not exactly a Johnny come lately either. It’s been in its current location for 25 years

We start (naturally) with some poppadoms, served with bowls of mango chutney, raita, chopped onions and (always my favourite) lime pickle, which is hot and sweet and sour all at the same time. We also have a portion of tandoori lamb chops, which we choose to share, because the main courses here are always on the generous side. The chops come piping hot from the clay oven, nestling on some freshly chopped salad. They are perfectly cooked, spicy, juicy and featuring those lovely charred edges that are such a delight. The bones are quickly stripped of every morsel of flesh.

The main courses are also note perfect – a chicken dansak which is gloriously thick with lentils and a king prawn balti, deliciously spiced and featuring large chewy tiger prawns. We have these with a portion of boiled rice and a couple of huge nan breads, a plain one for me and a peshwari for Susan. The Heatons’ nan breads are rather splendid things, light as feathers and the size of zeppelins, they’re perfect to tear apart and dip into your sauces.

Because there’s never any hope of polishing off those gigantic portions, we ask for the remains to be bagged up, something the staff here are always happy to do, and we head for home, knowing that there’s a whole other delicious meal to be conjured from what’s in the bag. Susan is given a chrysanthemum on the way out, an enduring tradition which we’ve never really quite understood, but it matters not. Consistency is the name of the game when it comes to Indian food and we’ve never been disappointed by a meal at the Heatons.

Get down there and give it a try. You won’t be disappointed.

4.5 stars

Philip Caveney

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