Food

Kampung Ali, Fountainbridge, Edinburgh

Unknown

08/04/15

Looking for somewhere with an incredible sense of style? Maybe Kampung Ali isn’t for you. The decor is, at best, functional and the huge mural on the back wall, which depicts an eastern city at night, complete with twinkling neon lights is, dare I say it? A bit kitsch. Maybe you’re looking for somewhere with an extensive wine list? Again, you won’t find it here. The house white is a chardonnay and at a push, they’ll drag out a glass of rosé sauvignon blanc that tastes as though it was originally opened to celebrate the marriage of Charles and Diana – though beer lovers will fare rather better with a bottle of Tiger. But if you’re looking for superb Malaysian cuisine offered at great value prices, well then, that’s a different matter entirely.

We began with two classic starters. The Vegetarian Spring Rolls were light, flakey and delicately spiced, one of the best versions of this dish I’ve ever tried. The the Satay Chicken Skewers came immersed in a thick and tangy peanut sauce, that was finger-lickingly good. Both portions were on the generous side (those with faint appetites may want to share a starter.)  The main courses were equally stunning. I had Crispy Pork with Noodles, which had a clean, pleasing flavour spiced with lemongrass and chilli, just enough to make the taste buds tingle, but not too overpowering. Susan opted for King Prawn with Noodles, a big hearty bowl of fishy goodness, swimming in a broth that was fierce but satisfyingly sweetened with coconut milk. No diner at Kampung Ali can afford to miss out on a bowl of their Coconut Rice  which is light, sticky and fragrant.

A meal for two with drinks came in at £36, which in the City Centre, can only be viewed as exceptional value. So, come to Kampung Ali. Ignore the decor. Sit down and take your taste buds for a brisk trot around the park. You won’t be disappointed.

4.2 stars

Philip Caveney

Brassica Grill – Shaw Road, Heaton Moor

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02/03/15

Brassica is housed in what used to be a popular Spanish restaurant in the Heatons, La Casona. Under the guidance of acclaimed Chef, Paul Faulkner, it’s already acquired an avid following and on the Thursday night we attended, was filled with a lively crowd of hungry diners. When we’d phoned to book, we were told yes, the restaurant could accommodate us at our chosen time, but apologised in advance that they’d have to give us a ‘slightly inferior’ table. (The table was perfectly acceptable, but I liked the attention to detail.) The ambience in Brassica is pleasantly austere, quite a change from its more flamboyant Spanish origins. We decided to try the set menu, (two courses for £14, three for £17). We both ordered the same starter, a Venison Scotch Egg with Pickled Celery, Beetroot and Apple Chutney. This was superb, the spicy meat coated with a crispy outer layer and the egg caught just at the right point, the yolk soft and full-flavoured. The tangy accompaniment was just enough to set it off.

So far so good, but then the main courses arrived and were perhaps not quite so successful. I went for the Fish Pie, which was pleasant enough if a little watery. Served in a tin dish, it resembled decent pub grub, but was not up to the standard of that incredible starter – and the accompanying broccoli spears were limp and unspectacular. Susan opted for the ‘Blade of Beef with Carrots, Wild Garlic and Creamed Potato. The description prompted us to expect a thin slice of meat, but instead she was served a cake-shaped serving of pulled beef, which was flavoursome but disappointingly greasy. The carrots and potato elements were nicely done. Again, it wasn’t bad, but nowhere near as assured as what had gone before.

We decided to go a la carte for the sweet (there was a choice of just three desserts on the set menu, none of which really appealed.) Susan ordered a Raspberry Soufflé served with Vanilla Ice Cream and I went for a real old school dessert, Treacle Tart and Custard. Soufflés are notoriously difficult to pull off, but this one was perfection, light, fluffy with a refreshingly tart flavour. The treacle tart was a sweet bombshell, stickily encased in thick vanilla custard. In both cases, the plates were virtually licked clean.

So, great marks for the start and end, but not so much for the middle. On the Moor, of course, the restaurant to beat is Steve Pilling’s Damson, which time and again pulls off note-perfect courses with aplomb.To be fair, Brassica isn’t a million miles away from rivalling it, but may require a little more attention on those main courses.

4.1 stars

Philip Caveney