


28/09/25
Platform Three, Rie-Achan Road, Pitlochry, Perthshire
We’re in Pitlochry as part of a five-day camper-van trip and we’re getting a bit bored of the simple meals we can rustle up on our tiny stove, so we decide to look online for somewhere good to eat. There are plenty of cafes and inns to choose from but the place that really catches our eye is The Wee Choo Choo. As the name suggests, it’s a restaurant in an unusual location: a specially converted train carriage – and not just any old train! The last time we saw this 1960s locomotive it was thundering across a movie screen in Mission Impossible: Dead Reckoning, while up on the roof Tom Cruise and Esai Morales were engaged in fisticuffs.
Rescued from a storage depot in darkest Middlesex by steam train enthusiast Fergus McCallum, one of the train’s carriages is now a high-end Thai restaurant. McCallum’s wife, Isara, handles the cooking and his daughter, Mia, takes care of the management, while McCallum acts as mâitre de. It’s Saturday midday when we drop by and there are a lot of bookings for the evening so, at first, it looks like we’re going to be out of luck, but Mia promises she will call us if she can possibly squeeze us in.
The hours pass and, just as we’re contemplating the prospect of another one-pot meal, our phone rings and Mia tells us there’s been a last-minute cancellation. We virtually sprint the short distance from our campsite to platform three…
Of course, it crosses my mind on the way there that, with such a unique setting, the food may just be mediocre fare, but happily this is not the case. On the contrary, the meal we sit down to represents some of the best Thai cuisine I’ve ever eaten. We begin with a couple of mouthwatering starters.
Goong-Sa-Rong features a couple of juicy King Prawns wrapped in crispy, crunchy yellow noodles and arranged on an avocado salsa salad. Gai Satay comprises chunks of tender marinated chicken on a skewer and a vegetable spring roll filled with crisp vegetables, glass noodles, cabbage and carrot. Both dishes are bursting with flavour and they look every bit as delightful as they taste.
The main courses are equally captivating. There’s Ma-Sa-Man Curry, slow-simmered in coconut milk. We’ve opted to try the duck leg version, (chicken or pork are also available), centred around a large drumstick, the meat of which is literally falling from the bone. It’s tender, mouth-watering and utterly captivating. It’s accompanied by a mound of perfectly cooked jasmine rice, a helping of tamarind and cinnamon potato and some crispy shallots. Moo-Ob-Nam-Pung is a generous helping of honey-pork spare ribs, slow-cooked in a sticky sweet sauce with another mound of that perfect rice. Again, the ribs are perfectly cooked and that sauce so enticing it’s all I can do to refrain from licking the plate clean.
Of course we have to try some puddings, so we opt for Rubies Pearl, a hand-rolled dessert with butterfly pea flower, sweet potato, fresh seasonal fruit in coconut milk and a scoop of homemade coconut ice cream. And then there’s the pièce de résistance, Thai Mango & Sticky Rice. We’ve heard cooks talk about these mangos, which have a very short season and are said to be the finest in the world. I have to admit, I’ve never tasted better, and when that incredible flavour mingles with warm rice pudding and more of that yummy coconut ice cream, the result is on another level.
Could this meal possibly be any better? Well, only if Tom Cruise were to suddenly climb down from the roof and come in through the window to say hello. And even then, he’d need to keep well away from these mangoes, because I’m not planning to share my portion with anyone!
Hats off to the very affable Fergus McCallum (who was more than happy to talk about his project and the culinary skills of the very talented Isara). Here’s my recommendation to anyone who happens to be within striking distance of Pitlochry in the near future: book your seats and make your way to Platform Three at full speed, where The Wee Choo Choo is waiting to supply the food of your dreams.
But hurry! Mango season is nearly over for another year…
5 stars
Philip Caveney
5 stars
Philip Caveney


























