23/05/24

West Register Street, Edinburgh

It turns out that Rishi Sunak isn’t the only person getting wet…

In Edinburgh it’s been raining without pause for 48 hours, which partially explains why we arrive at TATTU looking like we’ve swum there fully clothed. We take refuge in the low-lit restaurant, underneath a ceiling that is packed with (fake, obvs) cherry blossoms and we peruse the menu. In recent years, traditional Chinese restaurants have struggled to survive amidst the plethora of Japanese and Korean venues that seem to be opening on British cities on an almost daily basis. TATTU advertises itself as a venue that contrasts traditional Chinese interior design with ‘forward thinking contemporary Chinese and Asian cuisine.’ We opt for the ‘Taste of TATTU‘ menu which offers two courses at £28.50 and three for £33.50, but of course diners can choose to eat al a carte.

First up there’s a plate of Wild Mushroom Spring Rolls, which are intensely flavoured and accompanied by a truffle sour cream dip into which said rolls can be dipped. They are quite delicious as is the serving of Sugar Salt Crispy Squid. Though deep fried, it’s skilfully done, the little chunks of seafood dry and crunchy, peppered with green chilli, pomegranate and mint. This is insanely moreish and though I keep telling myself to leave some space for the main course, I am unable to resist hoovering up every last scrap.

For my main meal, I’ve opted for the Wok Fired Angry Bird, which is, I suppose, the most traditional dish of the evening, deliciously sweet yet with a tantalising flash of heat in the sticky sauce. The chunks of chicken are liberally layered with roasted chilli peppers, cashew nuts and sesame honey soy. Susan samples the Sea Bass Chinese Curry, which just might be the stand-out dish of the evening, the large chunks of fish perfectly cooked with a crispy skin and softly flaking interior, nestled in a smooth curry sauce with lemongrass, kaffir lime leaf and pak choi.

Puddings can be a let-down in many Chinese restaurants – though I still harbour fond memories of the banana fritters I used to enjoy in my childhood, drizzled with ample dollops of warm golden syrup. There are just two desserts available on this menu, so we decide to sample them both and – as ever – we share them.

The Asian Pear Sticky Toffee Pudding offers a clever fusion of that most traditional of British puds with something more exotic in which the flavour of almonds, vanilla and cinnamon cut through. Yum! The Cherry Blossom is a bit of a show stopper, a bowl of cherry mousse covered with chocolate ‘earth’ from which sprouts a tree made from chocolate and candy floss. Our waiter, Mikey, performs a little bit of theatre with a jug coaxing forth clouds of dry ice which drift enticingly around the dish. Happily, the food is as tasty as it looks.

All in all, this is an ambitious concept, skilfully presented and I enjoy every mouthful. I’m aware as I gaze mournfully out of the window, that the rain has not eased off one iota since we arrived, so there’s the prospect of a damp, homeward trudge ahead of us, but TATTU manages to send me on my way feeling well satisfied.

4.2 stars

Philip Caveney