Southside Scran | Bouquets & Brickbats

01/03/26

Bruntsfield Place, Edinburgh

We’re meeting up with a couple of pals for lunch and we’ve been hearing good things about Bombay Bistro in Bruntsfield, just a short walk from where we live. Located in the premises that previously housed Tom Kitchin’s much-missed Southside Scran – and, more recently, the same chef’s Kora – the BB’s Mandeep Saini (formally of Gleneagles Hotel), has been based here for several months now, and he promises ‘a fresh take on traditional Indian cuisine.’

As soon as we’re inside, we can see that the interior decor hasn’t changed much. It’s very quiet this Sunday afternoon, which is a shame, since the Prawn Biryani I plump for is deliciously spiced and mouth-wateringly aromatic. It needs to be sampled by more hungry diners. For my money, it’s up there with the best that Dishoom has to offer. Across the table, one of our friends is enjoying the chicken version of the same dish, and we’ve both chosen a peshwari nan to accompany our main course, which is light, sweet and crispy, exactly as it should be.

Our other friend has ordered Rava Fry Haddock with Masala Chips, two enormous fish fillets shallow-fried in spiced semolina and served with tadka mushy peas and the aforementioned fries, which have just a hint of spice about them. She deems the meal ‘delicious’ but can’t manage to finish it all. Susan, meanwhile, has opted for the Masala Broccoli and Pumpkin Superfood Salad, which features spinach, kale, avocado, coconut flakes and dried cranberries. She adds some Salmon Tikka and the combination proves to be a hit.

All in all, the main courses have wowed us, particularly in view of the prices, which offer good value for money. The two puddings we sample are also pretty good, even if they don’t quite attain the heights of their magnificent predecessors. There’s a mango and coconut kheer, that can be served warm or cold; and there’s a perfectly decent sticky toffee pudding, served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. However, neither dessert is hot enough: the rice pudding is only lukewarm and the sticky toffee is served cold, making it a little too dry. But these are minor quibbles and pretty much the only criticisms I have.

Those looking for excellent Indian cuisine that won’t make too big a dent on the finances should head up to Bruntsfield at their earliest opportunity and sample Mandeep’s creations for themselves.

4 stars

Phillip Caveney

13/11/18

Bruntsfield Place, Edinburgh

We can’t help but notice the smell of fresh paint as we enter Southside Scran. It’s rare that we visit such a recently-finished venue, but, over the past few months, we’ve watched with mounting excitement as Tom Kitchin’s latest project has taken shape in Bruntsfield. ‘As soon as we’ve got something to celebrate,’ we tell ourselves, ‘we’ll give this place a whirl.’ The opportunity arrives sooner than we think.

It’s clear from the outset that the venue is still going through that ‘settling in’ phase. When we arrive, the person on the front desk is locked into a long phone conversation, but a friendly waiter ushers us to the bar and supplies us with complimentary glasses of prosecco, whilst our table is ‘sorted out.’ Clearly, this man knows the quickest route to our hearts. It’s a Tuesday evening and during this bedding-in process, covers are restricted to 26 diners, so its relatively quiet tonight – but there’s a cheery wood burner on the go, a rotisserie is filling the place with the appetising aroma of cooked chicken and we’re perfectly content to sit perusing the menu and sipping our drinks.

Once at our table, we’re presented with chunks of fresh sourdough, some butter and a delicious pot of intensely flavoured chicken liver parfait. We try valiantly to hold ourselves back for the actual meal, but it’s difficult, especially when they replace the bread we’ve already eaten.

For my starter, I’ve chosen the Borders game pithivier, a delightfully crispy pie which is surrounded by a rich and fruity jus. It’s note perfect. Susan has the West coast shellfish ravioli, liberally doused in a delightful seafood bisque. In both cases the plates are virtually licked clean.

My main course is Clash Farm pork belly, with apple sauce. It’s soft, and sticky with a chewy, rather than crispy skin, good, if perhaps a little over-salted. Susan’s Orkney scallops with herb butter are nicely judged, just firm enough to offer a little ‘bite.’ For sides, we’ve chosen a bowl of macaroni cheese (I know, I know, it doesn’t really go with anything but, whenever we see it we somehow can’t resist ordering it and this is exactly as we like it, thick and gooey with a nice crispy top.) There’s also an earthy ragout of lentils and lardons and a green salad, which, in its own way, is a bit of a stand out. Perhaps you’re thinking, ‘oh, it’s just a green salad, a few leaves, a bit of cucumber, right?’ No, this is a little masterpiece, incorporating avocado, endives and pumpkin seeds, crunchy, and zesty and very nice indeed. So often, it’s the details that lift a meal above the run-of-the-mill.

We’re pretty full, by now, but the rice pudding with pumpkin, orange and salted caramel sauce sounds too good to ignore, so we opt to share a bowl – and we’re glad we do, because in many ways, this little belter is the other star of the show, so rich, so satisfying, that it makes the plate of strongly flavoured cheeses we finish up with a bit of a let down – nothing wrong with them, you understand, but that pudding is a tough act to follow, and perhaps more the kind of flavour my taste buds want to remember.

When it comes time to pay the bill our waiter informs us that because everything this evening hasn’t been ‘absolutely perfect,’ they’ve discounted the wine we ordered. It turns out that they haven’t charged us one penny for a bottle of Marlborough sauvignon blanc, which is very noble of them and a move that’s guaranteed to prompt me to return, once things are more settled. But really, I have no complaints anyway. I’m full and happy, a perfect combination.

It’s early days of course, but this first visit augers well for the restaurant’s future. Southside Scran offers really clever food, a sizeable step up from mere pub grub. The fact that the place is ten minutes walk from where we live is simply the icing on the cake – or, if you prefer, the sauce on the pudding.

4.8 stars

Philip Caveney