23/07/23

Newhouse Terrace, Dunbar

We’re meeting up with a couple friends in Dunbar and they’ve booked the four of us in for lunch at The 1902 Bar and Grill, a pleasant dining space in the Dunmuir Hotel, a short walk from where they live. It’s Sunday afternoon and the place is pleasantly busy. The 1902 offers traditional food with a contemporary twist and we’re warned that, since everything is cooked to order, there might be a bit of a wait, so we settle happily down to chat.

We eschew the idea of starters – though they do look pretty enticing – and, as one of the offerings on the menu is a Sunday roast, both Susan and one of our companions decide to go for that. It arrives looking pretty glorious, a generous helping of rare beef accompanied by all the trimmings: roast potatoes, creamed leeks, carrots, broccoli, horseradish sauce and a huge crispy Yorkshire pudding. I have opted for rump of lamb and this too is pretty unctuous, succulent chunks of rare meat accompanied by broccoli, heritage carrots, creamed leeks (again), a nicely-done fondant potato and a delicious haggis bon bon. There’s also a jug of red wine jus, which is quite simply delicious. Meanwhile, our other companion is tucking into a splendid slice of seared halibut, which comes with a dollop of caviar and half a dozen mussels on a bed of mixed vegetables. He pronounces it ‘delightful’ and makes very short work of it.

One of the advantages of skipping the starter is, of course, the fact that we’ve got plenty of room for pudding and The 1902 offers a tempting selection. Susan chooses the strawberry custard tart, which is as pretty as a picture and happily tastes every bit as good as it looks. I’ve been unable to resist an old favourite, sticky toffee pudding, though this version is made with banana, an inspired addition, which adds an extra kick of sweetness to the dish. (As if it needs extra sweetness – but I’m not complaining!) Both puddings come with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and both are consumed to the last crumb.

I can’t fault anything we have; everything is perfectly cooked and beautifully presented. Should you find yourself in Dunbar in the near future, this charming bar and grill is well worth seeking out.

4.5 stars

Philip Caveney