15/10/23

Lothian Road, Edinburgh

It‘s not every day that a restaurant opens at the end of your street, but in the case of Don@Tokyo, that’s exactly what’s happened – and we couldn’t be happier about it.

When we first moved to Edinburgh eight years ago, the building that now houses the venue was a TSB bank. It closed in 2019 and, though there were mutterings about turning it into a wine bar, the arrival of COVID promptly finished off that idea. The place stood empty for years and quickly became virtually derelict and covered in graffiti, a real eyesore.

So when legions of workers appeared earlier this year and started to gut the place, working around the clock to get the job done, we were understandably delighted. In what seems an improbably brief space of time, the interior has been repurposed, refitted and redecorated and we’ve watched entranced as Don@Toyko has risen from the ashes. It’s now a bright, spacious, bustling Japanese restaurant with an eye-catching video display in the foyer, some quirky red figurines and even a semi-private dining room for larger parties. Best of all, they’ve preserved the beautiful old Victorian mosaic over the doorway that announces ‘Thrift is Blessing’.

We take our seats and somebody brings us the menu, a tablet with images of the various dishes on it and we tap through, wondering why there are so few mains to choose from. Then our waiter realises that there’s a glitch and that not all the meals are showing. He brings us a replacement and there’s a lot more there than we first thought. (Say what you like about ink and paper, you never have to turn it off and turn it on again.)

We decide to share some rainbow sushi: exquisite parcels of sticky rice featuring salmon, tuna and prawn – and some california rolls with crab, cucumber and avocado. Both are delicious, particularly when eaten with slices of the pickled ginger that accompanies them. 

We also order some soft shell crab. This is a tempura with not a hint of grease. The batter is as light as anything and the flesh beneath melt-in-the-mouth tender.

Best of all is the main course we share, a gyudon, slices of beef and egg on a bed of rice. It may not be the most picturesque item on the menu, but it’s rich and nourishing and we finish every last morsel.

From the drinks menu we choose a couple of cold teas, one with mango, the other with grapefruit. I’ve never been a big fan of tea but these sweet beverages work brilliantly with the food, the citrusy tang cutting through those savoury flavours and gooey textures.

A word of warning. The service here is really swift and we make the mistake of ordering everything up front, so it all arrives together. While this would clearly suit larger parties of people who like to mix and match their dishes, it’s less successful for two people seeking a quiet dinner. Next time, we’ll choose a dish, eat it and then order the next. What’s more, we’re so full towards the end, we ask to take half of the California rolls away with us, which proves to be no problem. They are transferred into a delightful little presentation box, ready for a delicious lunch the following day.

It’s early days for Din@Tokyo, with the staff clearly still getting the measure of the place, but on the basis of our first foray, it makes a welcome addition to the local eating scene. I’m sure we’ll be back for more before very much longer.

4 stars

Philip Caveney