Food

FEIS

23/09/25

Traverse Theatre, Edinburgh

All is not well at Maguire’s School of Irish Dance. Back in the day, this Glasgow-based outfit was seen as a leader in its ghillie-footed field, when Deirdre (Louise Haggerty) won enough rosettes to paper the walls of her teenage bedroom. Decades later, the school’s fortunes are flagging disastrously and she’s been reduced to offering a ‘VIP’ service, performing online for an exclusively male clientele, who are not above offering extra money for her used socks.

Deidre’s mother, Maura (Julie Coombe), is blissfully unaware of these new measures but, when her teenage granddaughter, Aoife (Leah Balmforth), falls flat on her face at the 2023 Irish World Championships, things look pretty grim. Then Maura manages to scare off the school’s only other decent dancer and it’s clear that something has to give…

Billed as a dark comedy – though perhaps the term ‘farce’ might be more appropriate – FEIS (pronounced fesh) is a cautionary tale about ambition and the lengths to which some people are prepared to go to in oder to secure a win.

Writer Anna McGrath pursues the laughs with a vengeance, though it has to be said that the various twists and turns of the story often defy credibility and, in one particular instance, a real-life star of the Irish dance world has a pretty heinous accusation levelled against him.

Haggerty gives the lead role her all, even throwing in what looks to this novice like an impressive bit of Irish-dancing, but I remain unconvinced that anybody would go to the lengths Deidre does in order to attain her objective. Balmforth feels severely underused throughout, while Coombe’s is obliged to deliver a series of fat-shaming comments at an unseen dancer that feel somewhat at odds with contemporary thinking. (This may be the point but it feels ill-judged to me.)

Musician Brian James O’ Sullivan adds some spirited jigs and reels to the proceedings. Michael Flatley, meanwhile, was unavailable for comment.

3 stars

Philip Caveney

Chef

14/03/25

Traverse Theatre, Edinburgh

We are in a working kitchen and Chef (Rebecca Benson) is commenting on the purity of a peach, how so many cooks see it as their duty to corrupt and mask its natural flavour in their constant mission to seek out exotic new recipes. Here is somebody who has an almost religious fervour about food: its presentation, its flavours, the impact it can have on our lives. As she warms to her theme, we learn that the preparation of food has been both her salvation and her downfall. Alongside her, a silent kitchen porter – and BSL interpreter (Yvonne Strain) – helps her out whenever she needs to illustrate a point.

Sabrina Mahfouz’s Chef is an extraordinary play, a monologue delivered in a lyrical, almost poetic flow of startling imagery, the various sections of the narrator’s life introduced around specific recipes, each one important to her development. We learn about her hardscrabble youth, her uncaring father, her fierce determination to one day have a Michelin star displayed above the entrance to her own premises. And we gradually learn about what brought her to this particular kitchen today.

The tone at first is light, stuffed with delicious descriptions that flow from Benson’s tongue like manna – but, as the play stretches into its second half, other darker flavours begin to creep in: the shocking tang of corruption, a hint of something rotten at the heart of this tale of vaulting ambition.

And I love the fact that the story ends with a note of duality, the possibility that all might not be as straightforward as it initially appears…

Anchored by a powerhouse performance by Benson that ranges from uplifting fervour to unfettered rage, the piece is skilfully directed by André Agius, with Peter Small’s lighting design switching us effortlessly from place to place in the narrator’s cluttered headspace – and I’ve never seen a BSL interpreter so seamlessly incorporated into a performance, with Strain making an important contribution to the production that goes beyond the practical purposes she’s been put there for.

This is a riveting slice of theatre, brilliantly performed and expertly presented.

5 stars

Philip Caveney