14/03/25

Traverse Theatre, Edinburgh

We are in a working kitchen and Chef (Rebecca Benson) is commenting on the purity of a peach, how so many cooks see it as their duty to corrupt and mask its natural flavour in their constant mission to seek out exotic new recipes. Here is somebody who has an almost religious fervour about food: its presentation, its flavours, the impact it can have on our lives. As she warms to her theme, we learn that the preparation of food has been both her salvation and her downfall. Alongside her, a silent kitchen porter – and BSL interpreter (Yvonne Strain) – helps her out whenever she needs to illustrate a point.

Sabrina Mahfouz’s Chef is an extraordinary play, a monologue delivered in a lyrical, almost poetic flow of startling imagery, the various sections of the narrator’s life introduced around specific recipes, each one important to her development. We learn about her hardscrabble youth, her uncaring father, her fierce determination to one day have a Michelin star displayed above the entrance to her own premises. And we gradually learn about what brought her to this particular kitchen today.

The tone at first is light, stuffed with delicious descriptions that flow from Benson’s tongue like manna – but, as the play stretches into its second half, other darker flavours begin to creep in: the shocking tang of corruption, a hint of something rotten at the heart of this tale of vaulting ambition.

And I love the fact that the story ends with a note of duality, the possibility that all might not be as straightforward as it initially appears…

Anchored by a powerhouse performance by Benson that ranges from uplifting fervour to unfettered rage, the piece is skilfully directed by André Agius, with Peter Small’s lighting design switching us effortlessly from place to place in the narrator’s cluttered headspace – and I’ve never seen a BSL interpreter so seamlessly incorporated into a performance, with Strain making an important contribution to the production that goes beyond the practical purposes she’s been put there for.

This is a riveting slice of theatre, brilliantly performed and expertly presented.

5 stars

Philip Caveney